Polysint Resin Diamond Wheel
The PolySint Resin diamond wheels were made to replace traditional resin diamond wheels. They cut faster and will last longer because of the special polymer resin diamond blend. These wheels will quickly earn their position on commercial shops or avid hobbyists' machines.
In stock
SKU
11340_CFG
$222.60
As low as:
$195.89
As low as:
Description Polysint Resin Diamond Wheel
The PolySint Resin diamond wheels were made to replace traditional resin diamond wheels. They cut faster and will last longer because of the special polymer resin diamond blend. These wheels will quickly earn their position on commercial shops or avid hobbyists' machines.
The wheels feature a dynamically balanced aluminum core for an exceptionally smooth cut. The polymer resin is hard, unlike a traditional resin wheel. The six-inch wheel has a 4mm polymer resin depth, while the eight-inch has a 5mm depth.
This wheel is intended for the experienced user looking for a high material removal rate and a long service life.
1-inch arbor hole. Bushing not supplied.
| Diameter | Width | Weight | Rpm |
| 6-inch | 1.5" | 2.95lb | 1725 or slower |
| 8-inch | 2.0" | 6.50lb | 1725 or slower |
More Information
| Brand | Kingsley North |
|---|
Customer Reviews
Customer Reviews
Price
5
Quality
5
Value
5
Great wheels if you cab a lot and value your time
Review by
Jonathan
I was skeptical about the concept of a hard resin. In short, these wheels are wonderful.
I have been going straight from an 80 grit hard (plated) wheel to the 120 grit Polysint resin wheel (followed by a 220 or 280 soft resin wheel). The Polysint wheel aggressively removes scratches from the 80 grit hard wheel but without causing subsurface damage or deep scratches. The scratches left by the 120 grit Polysint are no worse than those left by a 220 plated wheel. But it is about 2 or 3 times faster than a 220 grit plated wheel. It is also super quiet and provides great feedback when it use, unlike 220 hard wheels which provide a sort of numb feeling in terms of feedback.
I have only used the Polysint wheel for about 20-30 cabs, but I can see no visible.
For me, the critical part of cabbing is the transition from hard wheels to soft wheels. The dome must be shaped with a hard wheel, but hard wheels can leave deep scratches and subsurface damage (fractures below the surface). At a minimum, this means spending far too long on the first resin wheel (a 280 grit for most people). At worse, subsurface damage does not show up until you get to the very fine grit resin wheels, at which point you must go all the way back to a 220 grit hard wheel of a 280 grit resin wheel to remove the damaged subsurface layer. The 120 grit Polysint wheel is a fast and effective way to bridge the transition from hard (plated or sintered) grinding wheels to resin wheels.
I hope to invest in the 390 and 525 grit Polysint wheels once I wear out my soft resin 280 and 600 grit wheels. I am less convinced that a Polysint 1100 grit wheel is a good idea, since I want to move to a soft resin wheel at the 600 or 1200 grit stage to smooth out ridges and even out of the dome.
I probably own 25 to 30 cabbing wheels -- everything from a 36 grit sintered wheel, to a 100,000 grit soft resin wheel. Based on my first impression, the Polysint 120 wheel is my favorite.
The price of the Polysint wheels is probably prohibitive for the casual user, but for commercial users, or impatient amateur cabbing addicts like myself, these wheels really are a game changer. If they truly last for years (or, at least, many hundreds of cabs), they are actually a good deal as well.
I hope that these wheels catch on in popularity among the "serious" cabbing crowd and that Kingsley North continues to offer them in the future.
I have been going straight from an 80 grit hard (plated) wheel to the 120 grit Polysint resin wheel (followed by a 220 or 280 soft resin wheel). The Polysint wheel aggressively removes scratches from the 80 grit hard wheel but without causing subsurface damage or deep scratches. The scratches left by the 120 grit Polysint are no worse than those left by a 220 plated wheel. But it is about 2 or 3 times faster than a 220 grit plated wheel. It is also super quiet and provides great feedback when it use, unlike 220 hard wheels which provide a sort of numb feeling in terms of feedback.
I have only used the Polysint wheel for about 20-30 cabs, but I can see no visible.
For me, the critical part of cabbing is the transition from hard wheels to soft wheels. The dome must be shaped with a hard wheel, but hard wheels can leave deep scratches and subsurface damage (fractures below the surface). At a minimum, this means spending far too long on the first resin wheel (a 280 grit for most people). At worse, subsurface damage does not show up until you get to the very fine grit resin wheels, at which point you must go all the way back to a 220 grit hard wheel of a 280 grit resin wheel to remove the damaged subsurface layer. The 120 grit Polysint wheel is a fast and effective way to bridge the transition from hard (plated or sintered) grinding wheels to resin wheels.
I hope to invest in the 390 and 525 grit Polysint wheels once I wear out my soft resin 280 and 600 grit wheels. I am less convinced that a Polysint 1100 grit wheel is a good idea, since I want to move to a soft resin wheel at the 600 or 1200 grit stage to smooth out ridges and even out of the dome.
I probably own 25 to 30 cabbing wheels -- everything from a 36 grit sintered wheel, to a 100,000 grit soft resin wheel. Based on my first impression, the Polysint 120 wheel is my favorite.
The price of the Polysint wheels is probably prohibitive for the casual user, but for commercial users, or impatient amateur cabbing addicts like myself, these wheels really are a game changer. If they truly last for years (or, at least, many hundreds of cabs), they are actually a good deal as well.
I hope that these wheels catch on in popularity among the "serious" cabbing crowd and that Kingsley North continues to offer them in the future.
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Product Questions (4)
Customer Questions
Yes, they have a 1" shaft. Ideally, you'd want to distribute the weight evenly. E.g. one inside left, one inside right. The other consideration is the spacing of the wheels. This will alter your spacing slightly. We won't know which spacers you will ...
These wheels are solid. Moving the piece will help.
It would work, but you would want to place it near the bearing.
No, it is not. These wheels are only up to pre-polish. The spots left behind are small and will need to be taken out before polishing.
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